USA HELPER PROGRAM

Mastering Trial Helper Work
By: Tom Quaka

Skilled trial helpers are essential to our sport. They must safely and consistently perform on the protection field.  If their job is done well, the judge will be in the best position to fairly evaluate each dog and handler team. Whether you aspire to compete at the national level or you’re focused on the rewards of training your dog, measuring your progress against the standard at a trial is important. Improving trial helper skills was the goal of the Trial Helper Seminar held on October 18th before the USA Nationals in Madison, Wisconsin.  This article summarizes what’s expected of a trial helper based on participating in the seminar. 

Although I’ve been helping with protection work at our club during training for some time, I had no experience in trial helper work.  I came to the seminar an open mind, a blank trial helper logbook, bite pants, my sleeve, and a padded stick.  About twenty of us signed in at ten in the morning and were promptly handed a written examination. I have to admit my expectations weren’t too high.  I liked the catchy “Bite Me” hats that were available for purchase and figured that even if the seminar were a bust, at least I would get a hat. My perspective changed as the seminar progressed. Many things that I thought I knew --based on watching trials and talking to helpers, were brought into much clearer focus.  I learned a great deal about the “hows” and “whys” of trial helper work along with a few “Tricks of the Trade”.  In the end, the “Bite Me” hat only topped off a great learning experience.  And now for the “how’s” and “whys”--- 

Working Safe

Safety was emphasized throughout the seminar.  The trial helper’s goal must be to safely working each dog in a way that minimizes the potential for injury to the dog.  The helper must have the proper safety equipment and always be alert for the unexpected.  Helpers must assume that they will take a bite sooner or later.  In the case of a the trial helper, the first bite is a free one for the dog.  However, after the first bite, the helper can do what’s necessary to protect himself from further bites.  The line that goes “take the bite and remain calm” seems to fit here!  The helper is the last line of defense in protecting the judge and the spectators if a dog fails to focus on the helper. Those of us who were in the stands at the USA Nationals have a much greater appreciation for this after seeing one of the dogs zero in on the judge during the long attack. The helper increases his risk of injury if he is not attentive to the dog until the handler and dog are safely off the field. Again, the USA Nationals provided a good example. While the helper for the front half was walking off the field, a dog left the handler during healing to the other end of the field for the long attack. Fortunately, the helper was paying attention. He was able to put on the sleeve and safely control the situation until the handler regained control of the dog. 

The trial helper seminar concentrated on five basic activities - the Hold and Bark, the Escape, the Attack out of Blind, the Defense (re-attack), and the Defense Against Attack (long attack). The remaining protection activities require similar skills. Each of the basic activities is discussed in more detail below.  

Hold & Bark.

The helper must set up in the blind with good balance so that he presents a strong picture for the dog while at the same time being able to remain still if the dog bumps or grips the sleeve.  Properly positioning the sleeve provides some level of protection to the front. Positioning the stick hand slightly to the rear along the right leg minimizes the risk of a bite to the hand. An upright body position with the helper’s face behind the plane of the sleeve will also lessen the risk of a bite. It’s all about safety, position and being prepared for all the possibilities. During the hold and bark, the helper may engage the dog with his eyes but the helper is not allowed to take any actions to encourage the dog to bark or to keep the dog focused on the helper. The only exception would be when the dog leaves the helper and moves toward the judge or spectators in a threatening way. 

For SCHH 2 & 3, the Hold & Bark exercise ends with the set up for the escape, including the handler’s search of the helper and the blind.  It is important for the helper to know, in advance, where the judge will position himself.  When properly organized, the dog and the judge will be in the best position to showcase the dog during the escape.  Even at a club trial, it is best to mark the positions for the dog and the helper to ensure consistency.  During the call out of the blind and setting up for the escape, the helper must be aware of the dog at all times.  His movements should be smooth and non-threatening. Handlers sometimes forget to tell the helper to put his arms up or forget to instruct him to put his arms down. The helper should take the initiative when the handler forgets. It is best to bring the arms down while the handler is close.  This will minimize the potential that the dog will react to the movement. 

Escape (SCHH 2 & 3 only)

This exercise requires good coordination on the part of the helper. The escape should be just that – an attempt by the helper to run away from the dog. The helper should have a fixed target that he will run toward each time during the escape. This will ensure that the judge is in the best position to observe the gripping behavior. The distance between the dog and helper is important because the helper must have time to accelerate before the quick dog moves in for the grip.  For a helper to accelerate quickly, he must pump his arms at least once or twice. The sleeve must then be held steady at the side so that the dog will have a good target for the grip. The dog must engage the helper within 20 meters or the exercise is over. Once the dog grips the sleeve, the helper continues to run keeping the sleeve close to his body. The shoulder muscles should be used to lift and carry the dog.  If the helper let the dog straighten out his arm after the grip, sooner or later the helper will end up going down! After carrying the dog for at least 10 steps, the escape should end with the helper positioning the dog so that the judge is in position to observe the OUT.  The lock up for the OUT should be crisp and easily detected by the dog.  If the dog doesn’t release the grip, the helper must do his best to hold the sleeve steady as the handler and the helper work through the outing process.  If necessary, the helper may hold the end of the sleeve with the stick hand to steady the sleeve. If this  technique is used, the stick should be dropped to avoid introducing other problems. 

Attack Out of  the Blind (SCHH 1 only)

The helper sets up in a position where he cannot be seen by the dog but not the normal hold and bar position.  The helper should stand roughly perpendicular to the normal hold and bark position. This position will allow the helper to exit the blind quickly and square up for the attack on the handler.  As the helper exits the blind, the sleeve and stick should be up in position to receive the grip. The helper moves directly toward the dog and handler.  It is important that the helper have space (4 to 6 inches) between the sleeve and his body so that he can absorb the impact of the dog as he grips the sleeve. As the dog grips the sleeve, the space allows for a split second pause before bringing the dog into position for the drive. The movement of the dog from the grip to the drive position is critical to the success of the drive. Without the momentary pause, the dog’s body may end up too far under the sleeve, making the transition to the drive difficult. On the other hand, a pause that is too long will allow the dog to establish position and resist movement into the drive position.  

Either the skip drive or the running drive is acceptable. It is a matter of helper preference. The drive needs to be long enough for the judge to observe the dog’s grip during the drives and for the helper to administer two soft stick hits. Again, the goal is to show the same drive exercise for each dog.  To achieve a consistent drive each time, the drive should be broken down into 3 count segments. After beginning the drive, count to 3 and give a stick hit. Again count to 3 and give the second stick hit. Finally, count to 3 and then lock up for the Out.  Since the drive has taken you away from the handler and perhaps even the judge, the helper may need to end the drive with a turning motion to provide the best position for the judge to observe the Out. The turn must be part of the drive and not part of the outing step. The helpers were cautioned to avoid the tendency of some helpers to pull back from the dog as they lock up. The entire drive including the stick hits, and the lock up for the Out need to be a smooth and continuously flowing exercise. 

Defense (SCHH 2 & 3 only)

After a definite pause following an Out, the helper initiates the exercise by moving the stick and sleeve, pausing only a split second while the dog engages the sleeve.  The helper moves forward into the dog bringing him to a good driving position. The arm is tucked in and the dog’s body should be trailing slightly to the side. Yes, there are a few dogs that make the ideal position almost impossible to achieve! Earlier comments about counting and correctness of the lock up apply here as well. For the Defense after the escape in both SCHH 2 & 3, this drive will include two stick hits.  If the dog fails to grip on the initial attack or releases the grip during the stick hits, the helper must continue moving toward the dog aggressively. The dog will either re-grip the sleeve and the drive will continue or the judge will end the exercise.  

Defense Against Attack (long attack)

Training a beginning helper for this exercise should start, like many of the other exercises, with the helper going through the elements first without a dog. The next step should be to practice with a dog but at shorter distances and finally, under simulated trial conditions. This exercise, more than any other, requires athleticism, split second timing, and the ability to quickly react to the dogs motion. When done properly, the grip, movement of  the sleeve, placement of the dog on the ground and transition into the driving position appear smooth and continuous motion. 

The exercise begins with the helper being called out of the designated blind and moving across the trial field at a normal pace (SCHH 1 & 2) or at a running pace (SCHH 3). The sleeve and stick are at the helper’s side moving with his normal arm motion. Near the midpoint of the field the helper turns, raises the stick to a threatening position and begins running toward the dog and handler. The helper may emphasize the turn by hitting the stick against his leg.  When the dog and handler are about 20 meters apart, the helper should raise the sleeve and establish the target for the dog. As the distance between dog and helper closes, the helper should shorten his strides to provide the best foot position to react to the dog. The helper’s strides may be very short just as the dog launches for the grip.  There is no time for thinking. The helper must react to the dog’s motion, absorb some of the energy from the grip and take the dog to the right or to the left based on the position of the dog as he comes to the grip. The drive that follows again ends with a crisp lock up for the Out.  

Wrapping up

Well, there you have it. That’s what I remember from my day at the Trail Helper Seminar. Our three instructors – Gary Park, Mark Chaffin, and Danny Grayson were great. Each had their own perspective and shared their wisdom as we covered each exercise. The one down side of the seminar was the fact that practice was limited due to the number of dogs available.  This is an area where we can all help. Many of us have a retired dog that would love to get out on the field for fun bites or have a dog we brought along to the nationals that is not competing. If the dog has sound bite work, it will not be “ruined” by a few less than perfect bites. The fact is, sooner or later our dogs are going to have to deal with a less than perfect sleeve presentation. I urge you to bring your dog to the next national event where the helper committee is conducting a seminar. Support this important program. If we want our trial helpers to improve, we NEED to support this program.  

As I watched the protection work during the days that followed, I had a much greater appreciation for the challenges our helpers face. As fans and competitors, we are often quick to point out the dog that didn’t get the perfect grip rather than acknowledge the twenty dogs that were worked without fault.  Will trial helpers give every dog the perfect sleeve presentation and flawlessly catch every dog no matter what the dog’s style?  I believe that every helper would like to. But, like you and I, they are human. We must recognize their commitment and appreciate their effort. We must remember that without their work we would not be able to compete. They deserve our recognition and appreciation for their contribution to the success of our sport. Finally, encourage your club helpers attending a trial helper seminar at the earliest opportunity. It will make a difference.